Brake Cables

Taylorcraft brakes are, of course, mechanical brakes actuated by cables.  The original size of the cables is a matter of some discussion.  Some say 1/16" cables were original, others say 3/32".  Adding to the confusion is the fact that most "T"s are now equipped with 1/8" cables which are standard for all other controls.  But the fact is the cables need to be quite flexible to go around those little steel pulleys...and 1/8" is just too large.  Then there's the reports of 1/16" cables breaking...breaking strength of 1/16" cable is 480 lbs., but one can easily imagine a panic stop with a 200 Lb. pilot stomping up to, well, 480lbs resulting in brake failure.  That leaves 3/32" cables, delightfully flexible in the 7X19 version with an astounding 1000 lb. breaking strength!

The cables are connected to the pedals with adjustable cable clamps.  Behind the pedals, the parking brake is connected with another cable clamp. (see Photo 1)  At the wheel, the cables are connected to the brake bellcrank with a nico press sleeve and thimble...and two steel links.  (see Photo 2)

 

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Fairleads, Cable Guides

These fairleads are usually called cable guides, although they do the same job as the round kind.  The T-Craft has 4 cable guides, two 3 holers as shown in Photo 1, and two single holers.  They serve to route the elevator and rudder cables around the cockpit.  My project T had the right front cable guide missing...it is the one that gets the most wear and gives the most friction (due to the angle of the cables at this point).

But it's easy to make a duplicate part.  Cut two identical blocks of 1/4 thick phenolic using an old cable guide as a pattern.  Then drill the mounting holes 3/16".  Bolt the two blocks together and then drill the 3 guide holes down the center. (Photo 2) The drill bit will tend to follow the seam between the blocks giving two nice half-holes in each block.

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Link to Fairleads, Phenolic

Fairleads, Phenolic

Nylon fairleads are easy and all "modern" looking.  But phenolic is original.   And lighter, and cheaper.  (Well, they're cheaper only if you ignore the labor required to fabricate them!)

I got my fairleads from Mark Julicher for $10/dozen.  They are simple sections of phenolic pipe and require some minor machine work to finish them.  All operations are easily done on a cheepo made-in-China drill press and some simple tooling.

I made fairlead mounting fixture for the drill press (Photo 2) by cutting the head off a AN3-15 bolt, drilling a 3/16 hole in a short piece of 5/8 dowl, a couple of washers and a AN365 nut.  Then I used a strip of plumbers sandpaper (Photo 3) wrapped around the fairlead to polish it down to around .790 outside diameter...a nice fit.

Then I used a 5/8 rotary rasp to open up the inside diameter (Photo 4).  (Test the fit by pulling a control cable through.)

To cut the retainer ring grooves, I made a "cup" fixture (Photo 5) from a piece of one inch steel tube with a washer soldered in one end.  The cup covers most of the fairlead but leaves about 1/8 of one end exposed.  The groove is cut with a hacksaw blade bearing against the phenolic and located by the cup fixture. (Photo 6).  Turn the fairlead around to cut the groove in the other end.

The resulting fairleads are identical to the original fairleads except for the fresh pink color. (Photo 7)

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Link to Fairleads, Nylon