Control Cables

Inspect those cables.  The traditional method is to rub a rag the length of the cable...if the rag snags on a loose wire, replace the cable.  But really, ALL the cables on the entire airplane can be replaced for less than $100 and a bit of your own labor.  So why not treat the old girl to a new set of control cables?!

The tools required are modest (Photo 2).  A cable cutter, some thimbles, nicopress sleeves, and a swedge-it tool.  The swedge-it tool comes with a go/no-go gage or you can use a calipers to check the finished swedge.  Order enough cable, plus a little extra.  The Taylorcraft uses all 1/8" 7X19 galvanized cable...about 150 feet total.  You can buy genuine aircraft cable for about the same price as the hardware store stuff, so don't cheap out on the cable quality!

First cut off the old fittings.  (Photo 3) shows a bushing being cut off with a hacksaw.  Then tape the old cable side by side to the new cable.  Keeping the old and new cables taped together (Photo 4) until the terminations are complete will ensure that the new cable will come out exactly the same length as the old cable.

Wrapping the cut point with a couple turns of masking tape will keep the cable strands from spraying out when cut with the cable cutter (Photo 5)

Run the cable through the nicopress sleeve, around the thimble, through the turnbuckle end (if used!), and then back through the nicopress sleeve.  Allow 1/8 to 1/4 inch of the cut end to protrude through the sleeve.  (photo 6)  The sleeve expands lengthwise as it is swedged, so it will tighten the cable around the thimble and reduce the length of cable end protruding out of the sleeve. 

Then insert the thimble, end, sleeve, cable assembly into the swedge-it tool (Photo 7) and complete the swedge following the directions that came with the tool or from AC43.13.

Finally, check the completed swedge with the go/no-go gage (Photo 8)

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Bungee Covers

Gary Austin let me use his original bungee covers.  (Photo 1) Bungee Covers, note cracks around mounting holes and riveted repairs

(Photo 2) Plywood mounting board holds the bungee covers for duplication.  I wanted to make the covers 3/8" wider to allow for some trimming to fit and close up the centerline gap between the L and R covers.  Also, I added a 1/4 " shim under the center of the originals to give a bit of preload to the spring effect.

(Photo 3) Bungee covers are attached to the mounting board with 1/2 inch aircraft nails around outside edges and given first coat of wax.

(Photo 4) Then the waxed bungee covers are given two layers of fiberglass and the base box is bedded into the still-wet resin.  In this photo you're looking at what will be the bottom of the finished mold.

(Photo 5)  The first part being removed from the mold.  It still needs to be cleaned, trimmed, painted, and cut into two individual covers.

(Photo 6) The finished composite bungee covers.

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Bungees

The bungees are removed by cutting them.  Be careful, the final snap can be a shock.

Get the proper tool to install new bungees.  David Rude makes an excellent tool (shown in Photo 1).   Read and carefully follow the directions that come with the tool.  Bungees can easily develop people maiming force.

Photo 2 shows the tool being used to install a bungee. 

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Turnbuckles

Turnbuckles may simply be replaced with new or the old ones may be inspected, cleaned, refinished and returned to service.   At $25 each it's an easy decision.  ( There are 10 turnbuckles in a Taylorcraft!)

When you disassemble the turnbuckles the first thing you'll notice is that one end has left hand threads.  That end is marked with a ring around the barrel.  The turnbuckles may be difficult to turn, soak them overnight in a penetrating oil.  Once you have them disassembled, clean all parts with a toothbrush and mineral spirits.

The barrels are made of bronze and are likely to have turned a dull gray color.  You can return them to a beautiful golden hue with a scotchbrite pad and some metal polish.  (Photo 2).  Clean the internal threads by screwing an old turnbuckle end in and out a few times with a drop of marvel mystery oil.

Turnbuckle ends are galvanized steel.  If the plateing is intact you may simply clean and reuse them.  But you're likely to find that most have a light surface rust starting.  (deeply rusted, pitted ends should be rejected)  Give them a light bead blasting to remove the rust and a double coat of epoxy primer.  (don't paint the threads!)

Small parts like turnbuckle ends may be blasted in a kitchen strainer like shown in Photo 3 or they may be attached to a board for blasting and painting like Photo 4.  I prefer mounting them to a board since it protects the threads from blasting and painting.

AC43.13 shows how to assemble and safety wire your turnbuckles.

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