Control Cables

Inspect those cables.  The traditional method is to rub a rag the length of the cable...if the rag snags on a loose wire, replace the cable.  But really, ALL the cables on the entire airplane can be replaced for less than $100 and a bit of your own labor.  So why not treat the old girl to a new set of control cables?!

The tools required are modest (Photo 2).  A cable cutter, some thimbles, nicopress sleeves, and a swedge-it tool.  The swedge-it tool comes with a go/no-go gage or you can use a calipers to check the finished swedge.  Order enough cable, plus a little extra.  The Taylorcraft uses all 1/8" 7X19 galvanized cable...about 150 feet total.  You can buy genuine aircraft cable for about the same price as the hardware store stuff, so don't cheap out on the cable quality!

First cut off the old fittings.  (Photo 3) shows a bushing being cut off with a hacksaw.  Then tape the old cable side by side to the new cable.  Keeping the old and new cables taped together (Photo 4) until the terminations are complete will ensure that the new cable will come out exactly the same length as the old cable.

Wrapping the cut point with a couple turns of masking tape will keep the cable strands from spraying out when cut with the cable cutter (Photo 5)

Run the cable through the nicopress sleeve, around the thimble, through the turnbuckle end (if used!), and then back through the nicopress sleeve.  Allow 1/8 to 1/4 inch of the cut end to protrude through the sleeve.  (photo 6)  The sleeve expands lengthwise as it is swedged, so it will tighten the cable around the thimble and reduce the length of cable end protruding out of the sleeve. 

Then insert the thimble, end, sleeve, cable assembly into the swedge-it tool (Photo 7) and complete the swedge following the directions that came with the tool or from AC43.13.

Finally, check the completed swedge with the go/no-go gage (Photo 8)

Return to Index

 

Bungee Covers

Gary Austin let me use his original bungee covers.  (Photo 1) Bungee Covers, note cracks around mounting holes and riveted repairs

(Photo 2) Plywood mounting board holds the bungee covers for duplication.  I wanted to make the covers 3/8" wider to allow for some trimming to fit and close up the centerline gap between the L and R covers.  Also, I added a 1/4 " shim under the center of the originals to give a bit of preload to the spring effect.

(Photo 3) Bungee covers are attached to the mounting board with 1/2 inch aircraft nails around outside edges and given first coat of wax.

(Photo 4) Then the waxed bungee covers are given two layers of fiberglass and the base box is bedded into the still-wet resin.  In this photo you're looking at what will be the bottom of the finished mold.

(Photo 5)  The first part being removed from the mold.  It still needs to be cleaned, trimmed, painted, and cut into two individual covers.

(Photo 6) The finished composite bungee covers.

Return to Index

 

Bungees

The bungees are removed by cutting them.  Be careful, the final snap can be a shock.

Get the proper tool to install new bungees.  David Rude makes an excellent tool (shown in Photo 1).   Read and carefully follow the directions that come with the tool.  Bungees can easily develop people maiming force.

Photo 2 shows the tool being used to install a bungee. 

Return to Index

Turnbuckles

Turnbuckles may simply be replaced with new or the old ones may be inspected, cleaned, refinished and returned to service.   At $25 each it's an easy decision.  ( There are 10 turnbuckles in a Taylorcraft!)

When you disassemble the turnbuckles the first thing you'll notice is that one end has left hand threads.  That end is marked with a ring around the barrel.  The turnbuckles may be difficult to turn, soak them overnight in a penetrating oil.  Once you have them disassembled, clean all parts with a toothbrush and mineral spirits.

The barrels are made of bronze and are likely to have turned a dull gray color.  You can return them to a beautiful golden hue with a scotchbrite pad and some metal polish.  (Photo 2).  Clean the internal threads by screwing an old turnbuckle end in and out a few times with a drop of marvel mystery oil.

Turnbuckle ends are galvanized steel.  If the plateing is intact you may simply clean and reuse them.  But you're likely to find that most have a light surface rust starting.  (deeply rusted, pitted ends should be rejected)  Give them a light bead blasting to remove the rust and a double coat of epoxy primer.  (don't paint the threads!)

Small parts like turnbuckle ends may be blasted in a kitchen strainer like shown in Photo 3 or they may be attached to a board for blasting and painting like Photo 4.  I prefer mounting them to a board since it protects the threads from blasting and painting.

AC43.13 shows how to assemble and safety wire your turnbuckles.

Return to Index

Aileron Leading Edge

The aileron leading edge is much more difficult to install than the wing leading edge.  Reason?  The aileron leading edge must be bent around a smaller radius.  It take quite a bit of force across the 4 foot wide sheet of aluminum to get it to bent that tight.  One solution: get a couple of helpers and use 4 to 6 hands at once to bend it around.

But if you're like me (working by myself most of the time!) you'll need to use this little trick.  First, tack the leading edge to the spar along the bottom of the aileron.  Use those little 3/8" aircraft nails in the spar and a few #4 screws into the ribs.  Then bend the leading edge part way around and tie it in place with a 2' length of 1/4" nylon rope.  Move a little further down and do the same thing again.  (Photo 1)   Continue bending and tieing until the entire leading edge is partially bent.  (Photo 2)   Add a row of screws to hold it in place, then bend it a little more and tie it again...add more screws.  Bend, tie, screw...bend, tie, screw...until it's done! 

Go to Aileron Assembly page

Return to Index

Aileron Assembly

Procedure for assembly of the aileron:

1. Transfer the rib locations, reinforcement locations, and hardware locations from the old spar to the new spar.  Glue and nail the center reinforcements onto the new spar.  Varnish everything except the inboard and outboard reinforcement locations.

2. Slide the ribs onto the spar. I use the vertical wing assembly jig with the uprights moved closer together. (Photo 1)  Leave them loose for now.

3. Glue and nail the inboard and outboard plywood reinforcements onto the spar. (Photo 2)

4. Varnish the plywood reinforcements.

5. Double check the hardware locations using a machinists square and tape measure.  Mark the hole locations onto the reinforcement plates.  (Photo 3)

6. Use the drill press to accurately drill the hardware locations.  (Photo 4)

7.  Bolt the hardware back onto the spar, nail ribs in place, re-install the trailing edge and tip bow.  (Photo 5)

8. Flip the aileron over and nail the nose ribs in place.  Use a third-hand square to hold the ribs while you nail them.  (Photo 6)  And finally, screw the leading edge pieces back onto the nose ribs.

Return to Index

 

Buying a Project Plane

Some tips on buying a Project Plane:

(1) Buy a plane made in the great post WWII airplane boom...1946 was a great year for light planes.  Thousands of sturdy, docile little civilian planes were produced at this time.  They all followed the same formula: fabric covered taildraggers with plenty of wing, sturdy wing struts, no electrical system, and powered by the famous, classic, super reliable Continental A-65 engine.  Piper, Aeronca, and Taylorcraft are some of the better known brands.  Through the years these wonderful old airplanes have been extremely well maintained, as an aircraft must be, and thousands are still available at very modest prices.

I recommend the Taylorcraft (Photo 1).  The T-Craft is a great bargain.  Although prices are trending upward, project planes are currently selling for less than $10,000.   (I bought an all-there T-Craft project two years ago for $8000 that included a 0-time Continental engine)    The Taylorcraft is known for its docile, beginner-friendly flying qualities and its simple low-tech construction is ideal for home shop restoration.

(2) Buy a non-flying project.  You'll be tempted to buy a flying-but-needs-restoration bird...but you'll pay twice as much for it and get maybe a year or two, at most, of flying before you have to tear it down for rebuild.  Get a plane that's been in storage for a few years and use the money you save to give her a first class restoration!

(3) Go get it yourself.  Don't attempt to have your project shipped to you.  A car trailer can easily transport a light plane with the wings off.  (Photo 2)  If you're only going a short distance, you can even tow the plane on its own wheels. (Photo 3)  You'll save a bundle by acting as your own trucker, and when you go to pick up your project you can be certain to get ALL the parts.

(4) On any given day, dozens of projects are available online at eBay, Barnstormers and at Trade-A-Plane.  Also, a good source of project planes are type clubs like the Taylorcraft Foundation and local EAA chapters.

Go to Restoration Economics

Return to Index

 

Aileron Spar Reinforcement Plates

Aileron construction is nearly identical to the wing construction...wood spars with nailed on aluminum ribs.  The difference lies in the fact that the ribs "slide on" the spar.  This means that the center ribs must be installed before the plywood reinforcement places are glued on.

The center reinforcement is not plywood, it is solid spruce with tapered ends.  Photo 2 shows a scarf box used to make the tapered ends.  The scarf box is made from a 2X4 base with plywood faces that have been band-sawed to the correct angle.  The reinforcement plate is clamped into the scarf box and then a plane is used to trim the material.

Photo 3 shows the mixing of the resorcinol adhesive.  Resorcinol is used because it was the adhesive used in the 40's to build up spars and is thus the "legal" adhesive today. It is applied with a paint brush (Photo 4).  To prove the integrity of your glue joints make a couple of test blocks at the same time as the spar is glued. (Photo 5) Then clamp the spar reinforcements and the test blocks (Photo 6) and wait overnight for the glue to cure.

Now the spars can be varnished...except for the areas that will have plywood reinforcements.  Use masking tape.  (Photo 7) Remember, we'll assemble the ailerons in 6 steps: 1. glue on center reinforcement plate 2. varnish all except plywood reinforcement areas 3. install center ribs 4.glue on plywood reinforcement plates 5.install outer ribs 6. varnish again. 

Photo 8 shows the plywood reinforcements being installed.  Nails are used to hold the plywood plates while the glue sets (Photo 9)

 

 

Yoke Bearings

The Yoke bearings allow the yoke to slide in and out and turn while still providing firm support.  They are mounted between pairs of steel channels directly behind the instrument panel.

The original bearings were made of phenolic as shown in Photo 1.  Some folks make their bearings of nylon, which I suppose would give slightly less friction but faster wear.  I chose to stick with the traditonal phenolic material...cheap, light, functional.  You need 1/4" thick phenolic and since it's sold by the square foot you'll have to order 1/4 of a square foot (6"X6") enough to make 6 bearings!  You'll also need a 2 foot length of 1/4" rubber channel.

The bearings are 2" X 2 3/8" so start by cutting a 2" X 6" slab off your 6X6 chunk of phenolic.  Ordinary woodworking tools work fine on phenolic, so a bandsaw will serve.

Mark the hole locations (draw an "X" to find the centers), then drill 3/4" holes.  If you use a spade drill like I did, drill 1/4" pilot holes first.  (Photo 2)  Smooth the inside and the edges of the hole with a round file.  Check for fit on the yoke shaft.

After cutting the bearings off the 6" slab, fit pieces of the rubber channel around the outside of bearing.  (Photo 3)  The rubber channel will dampen vibration to the yoke.

Slide the bearing/rubber assembly down into the slot formed by the steel channels and secure it with #6 X 3" screws top and bottom.  (Photo 1)  If you have trouble sliding the bearing/rubber assembly into position, try putting the rubber channels in first and then slide the phenolic bearing into the rubber.

Return to Index

Link to Yoke Centerpieces,  Tank Installation,  Instrument Panel Repair

Fuel Tank Test and Installation

There are at least two ways to test your fuel tanks.  One tank test method is to fill the tank with compressed air and see if any air leaks out.  The air leaks are detected by brushing a soapy water solution on the outside of the tank and watching for bubbles.  Hook the tank outlet to a pressure regulator set on it's lowest setting...about 5 psi.  Rubber band a latex glove over the filler opening.  (Photo 1)

A more practical test for the small time aircraft restorer is the old water test.  Simply fill the tank with water (plug the drain openings), and wait.  The photo above shows my two tanks filled with water on my patio after after about 2 hours.  As you can see, the wing tank had no leaks at all.  But the main tank is leaking around the filler neck.  Next step: drain the tank and repair with JB Weld.  It takes about 2 days for the inside of the tank to dry completely.

The Taylorcraft main tank is installed with two 1/4" steel X rods that pass through tubes in the tank.  It is important to cushion the tank mounting.  Use two 22" long pieces of 1/4" automotive fuel line over the X rods to give a very snug yet resilient installation.  see Photo 2

return to Index

link to Fuel Caps,  Fuel Gauge,  Fuel Valve

Decals

Decals can be decorative items like the Taylorcraft logo shown here, or can be functional items like instrument panel placards.  Either is easy to make yourself on an ordinary inkjet printer.

You'll need decal paper and spray varnish.  Decal paper is available from Bel decal for about $8 for 10 sheets.  Get a mixture of clear and white paper.  The spray varnish is available at WalMart.  You'll want to get "Krylon Crystal Clear", the gloss spray works great, but you might want to get some Matt finish spray too for doing your flat finish instrument panel.  It's about $3 per can.

I wanted to make a T-craft logo for the center of my yoke centerpieces.  I first made a scan of the old logo.  (Photo 1).  It was scratched and faded, so I printed an enlargered version (5X) on photo paper.  Then I went over the black portion of the logo (on the photo paper) with a Sharpie felt tip marker.  (Photo 2)  I also touched up the white parts with typewriter correction fluid (White-out).  While I was at it I made the outer black ring thicker and more defined.  The resulting cleaned-up drawing (Photo 3) was then scanned back into the computer.

I printed the logo on clear decal paper.  I increased the contrast to about +60% and decreased the brightness to about -30% to get the black parts completely black.  I set the size at 1.7 inches, slightly larger than the original 1.2 inch logo.  Careful! The ink stays wet a long time on the decal paper and I ruined several decals by touching them too soon.  When the ink does dry (30 minutes?) spray the decal with Krylon to seal it.

When you're ready to transfer the decal cut it out carefully with sissors.  (Photo 4)  Drop the decal in a bowl of water for 1 minute and then slide it off the backing paper onto the finished surface.  You'll have a couple minutes to move the decal around into exact position and to press out any bubbles or creases.  After the decal dries give it a couple more coats of Krylon to seal it onto the surface.  (Photo 5)

Return to Index

Link to Yoke Centerpiece

Instrument Panel Repair

The original T-Craft Instrument Panel is becoming a rare bird.  They are often "improved" by adding additional instrument holes, electrical switches, radios, GPS units, digital clocks and other horrid junk.  Also common is the panel that is concave.  The original panel was apparently made of aluminum sheet that was too thin and they easily dent inward and are almost impossible to pop back out.

It's hard to beat the original design...simple, clean, light, functional.  Some folks will take out the old panel and replace it with a new, thicker flat panel.  Not original and doesn't look antique...but not a bad solution to the panel problem.

Another typical "repair" is to cut out the entire middle section of the panel and then add an insert that is made of thicker aluminum.  Photo 2  The insert shown has holes for 6 (!) 3 inch instruments, enough for a IFR T-craft!

A better fix for the concare panel is to add a aluminum angle across the back.  Photo 3 shows a 1 1/2 aluminum angle bolted onto the back of the panel.  The reinforcement angle is 15" long and 1/16 thick.  It has two cutouts for the oil pressure and temperature gages and is fastened through the front with black instrument screws.  This simple repair is invisible from the cockpit, retains the original panel design, yet gives the whole unit a remarkable lightweight strength.

Return to Index

Yoke Centerpiece

My yokes came without the plastic centerpieces, and indeed they seem to be getting hard to find.  I saw a Taylorcraft yoke, with centerpiece, on eBay and bought it thinking I could make a copy of the centerpiece.  But when it arrived I saw the plastic was warped and deformed.  So I was faced with making a mold from scratch.

I started with a 3inch styrofoam ball like is used by hobbyists to make Christmas ornaments.  I cut the foam ball in half (Photo 2) on the band saw, sanded the radius slightly flatter on top, and then epoxyed it onto a plywood board.  I cut three sections of broom handle and epoxyed them to the plywood in the position of the yoke spokes.  Photo 3 shows the resulting plug.

After giving the plug 3 coats of wax, I covered it with fiberglass to produce the mold. (Photo 4)  I wanted threaded inserts in the finished part so I made a core for the mold as shown in Photo 5.   The core is a piece of 1/4 plywood cut to fit into the spoke cutouts in the mold.  Three 8-32 screws hold 3 nuts in the correct position in the mold.

The layup procedure is to wet out two layers of glass in the mold, then pour 1/4 inch of resin with finely chopped glass in the bottom of the mold.  Next the core is inserted.  After the resin sets, the 8-32 screws are unscrewed leaving the nuts trapped in the 1/4 inch resin-glass layer.

The parts are removed from the mold, sanded and painted.  The backing pieces receive no nut inserts but are drilled instead.  Use the mold core as a drilling template.  Photo 6

You can trim the edges of the centerpieces with a strip of vinyl electrical tape, then screw them in place on the yokes.  Photo 7

The little aluminum inserts are made by clamping aluminum disks between two steel washers Photo 8, and then hammering the edge down around the washer.  Photo 9 Then the insert (with its decal!) is epoxyed in place on the centerpiece.  Photo 10

Link to Yoke Bearings,  Decals, Fiberglass Molds

Return to Index

Fuel Gauge

The Taylorcraft fuel gauge is about as simple, light, and reliable as can be made.  It is simply a cork on a rod that sicks up through the fuel cap directly in front of the windshield.  It's identical to the J-3 Cub fuel gauge.  They are expensive to buy, but cheap and easy to make. ( Photo 1)

The original unit (Photo 2) had a couple of small design flaws, which we will correct on our new gauge.  First, the cork is literally a cork like comes out of wine bottle.  The cork (1 1/2 corks really) was coated with shellac to make it last longer, but when exposed to modern ethanol blend fuels they will quickly fall apart.  The solution is to use a synthetic fuel float designed for modern fuels.  They are available from Synder Antique Auto Parts as the Ford Model A fuel float.  You need two.  They cost $4 each.

The second problem with the original fuel gauge is the fuel cap itself.  The original had a cork gasket that, again, will deteriorate when exposed to modern fuel.  And the original caps are prone to rust quickly.  The solution is to make your fuel gauge/cap out of a tractor gas cap.  Tractor caps ($6) are designed for use with ethanol blend fuels and have an excellent gasket.  We can keep the cap from rusting by sandblasting and painting it with epoxy primer.

So, gather your parts.  Two Model A fuel floats, a tractor gas cap, 2 inches of 1/4" copper tube, and two #4 washers.  You'll also need a stainless steel welding rod, 3/32 diameter ($2) and at least 16" long.

Solder (silver solder or braze) one washer on the welding rod about 3 1/2 inches from one end.  Install the fuel floats and then solder the other washer on the end of the rod leaving a 1/4" gap between the washer and the now-trapped floats.  A little trick to keep from melting the floats when soldering the washer onto the rod: cut a 2" circle out of poster board, poke a hole into the center of the circle and then soak the poster board disk in water for a minute.  Push the wet disk onto the rod so it rests against the float and protects it from the heat.  When done soldering, simply cut the paper disk away. (Photo 3)

The fuel cap is prepared just like wing tank caps.  (See the "Fuel Caps" entry).  The difference is that the copper tube is only 2" long, with about 1" extending above the cap.  Blast and paint the cap.  Install it on the rod, check rod length in your tank, and then cut to length and bend the end of the rod. (Photo 4)

Return to Index

Link to Fuel Caps,  Fuel Tank

Documentation, Organization

I use digital photos, but have found them of limited use...I seem to always take the  photo from the wrong angle and often I can't find the photo I want when I need it.

I keep a disassembly log that includes drawings and notes to myself.  My log is an ordinary school notebook.  (Photo 1)

I use a clip board to keep a running list of the parts I'm going to need.  I replace all AN hardware so the list gets rather long and complex.  As my budget permits, I order supplies from Aircraft Spruce and cross them off the list.

I label parts with masking tape and a sharpie marker.  I always label up, down, fore, aft, etc. so I can get the parts back in the right position.  (Photo 2)

I use 3X5 cards to schedule tasks ("Blast and Paint Gear Vees" for example).  I arrange the cards in order and post them on a project board on the wall of my shop.  (Photo 3) As I complete a task, I take the card off the project board and gleefully toss it in the trash.

Return to Index

Fairleads

Cable fairleads guide the control cables.  There are 10 of them in the T-Craft fuselage.  The original fairlead is a simple plastic tube with two retainer rings.  It is simple and light but is made of phenolic and is no longer available.

The Piper fairlead is readily available, is made of nylon, and is split so it can be installed with the cables already in place.  The problem with a Piper fairlead is that it is longer than the T-Craft fairlead and slightly smaller in diameter.  See the drawing in Photo 1 for a comparison.

An acceptable substitute fairlead is available from Aircraft Spruce.  It is called a "short fairlead segment" and is not shown in their catalog, so go to their website and search for the part number 40071-00.  Each segment is half of a fairlead so you'll have to order 2 segments for each fairlead (20 segments make 10 fairleads). (Photo 2)

The length of the short fairlead segment is exactly right for a Taylorcraft but the diameter is about 1/16" too small.  If you wrap 2 or 3 turns of ordinary masking tape around the fairlead during installation the diameter will be just right.  The masking tape also makes installation much easier as it holds the parts in position while you put on the retainer ring. 

A 3/4 inch snap ring can be used as a retainer or simply use the Aircraft Spruce retainer rings by slipping them right over the masking tape.  (Photo 3)

Cost? $.83 each for two segments and $.27 for a retainer, or $1.93 per fairlead.  Total of just $19.30 to do the entire airplane!

Return to Index

Link to Fairleads, Phenolic

Gear Return Bumpers

Gear bumpers cushion the return of the gear after it flexes the bungees.  The originals are no longer available, but a much improved copy can be made from an axe handle protector.  One end of the axe handle protector is cut off (Photo 1).  A bandsaw does the job in a minute.

Axe handle protectors are available from Ace hardware stores for a few dollars.  (or ultimatetoolgroup.com)  Size HS-3 works great.  (Photo 2) You'll need two of them.

After cutting off one end of the handle protector, drill two holes about 1/8" diameter completely through.  Make the holes 2" apart and about 3/4" below the cut off end.  Push the bumper onto the fuselage frame in the gear return position and secure it with safety wire. (Photo 3)

Link to  Brakes,   Tires,   Wheel Pants

Return to Index

 

Fuel caps

Caps for wing tanks need a special positive pressure vent.  The top of the wing is, of course, a low pressure area and without a positive pressure vent the tank will not drain in flight.  The positive pressure vent is simply a tube that faces into the airstream. (Photo 1)

These caps can be purchased, but they are quite expensive.  Make your own for just a few dollars.  Start with a tractor gas cap, the kind used on a Bobcat loader is just right, it has a neoprene gasket that is easy to remove without damage.  You'll also need 4 inches or so of 1/4 inch copper tube.

Make a cap adapter for your vice.  I made mine out of two hardwood blocks.  Bandsaw the cap radius into both blocks, and cover the "jaws" with rubber from an old bicycle inner tube.  (Photo 2)

Clamp the cap in the vice upside down, drill a small hole (pilot hole) through the center of the spring.  Then use a carbide tip drill bit to drill a 1/4 inch hole through the spring, but not all the way through the cap.  You'll need a carbide tip drill (cement drill) because the spring is hardened steel and a regular drill bit won't do it.

Flip the cap back right side up and drill a 1/4 inch hole in the top of the cap with an ordinary drill bit.  Use the pilot hole for alignment.

Then insert the copper tube and solder it in place.  Use silver solder.  (Photo 3)  The cap has 2 little vent holes on the inside that won't be needed anymore so flip the cap back upside down and solder closed the little vents in there.

Sand or sandblast, paint with white epoxy primer and reinstall the gasket.  Install the cap on the tank filler neck, then bend the tube in the airstream direction (forward).  I use a little homemade fiberglass bending tool (Photo 4), but a spring bender works good too.  Don't try to just bend the tube by hand...it'll kink.  Finally paint your fuel cap red.

Return to Index

Link to Fuel Gauge, Fuel Tank

 

Tire mounting

Mounting aircraft tires is much easier than automotive tires.  The wheels are split in two halves, then bolted together inside the tire.

Use tire talc...or just as good is ordinary baby talc or bath talc.  Smells nice too.  Sprinkle some on the tube and the wheel innerds.

Slightly inflate the tube inside the tire, insert the outside wheel half, push the valve stem through the hole, then install the inner wheel half and bolt them together.

Caution: don't pinch the tube between the wheel halves. 

Many wheels have a torque specification.  Shinn wheels do not.  Tighten the bolts evenly snug.

The valve stem will try to push back into the wheel when you try to inflate the tire.  Secure it with a thin nut, or use one of those bicycle pumps that clamps onto the stem.

Inflate to pressure spec (20psi for T-Craft), then let it rest overnight and check again.

Link to  Brakes,  Gear Return Bumpers,   Wheel Pants

Return to Index

wheel pants

Wheel pants add a little speed, they reduce drag slightly.  But mainly they just look so darn cute!  If you have the mounts, you can just buy a stock set of wheel pants from Spruce or Wagaero or whatever and mount 'em on your wheels.

Mounts are easily made out of mild steel.  There are two parts on each side, an inner mount and an outer.

The inner mount (Photo 1) is a kidney shaped flat with a channel welded in its middle and six holes around the outside.  The left and right sides differ only in which side the channel is welded on.  The outer mount (Photo 2) is a tube that fits inside the axle and a large washer that bears against the wheel pant. 

The wheel pants themselves are made of fiberglass (Photo 3)  Cut a slot and drill holes to match the steel mounts.  Use 1/4 inch bolts to mount on the landing gear.  Photo 4

Link to Brakes,  Gear Return Bumpers,   Tires

Return to Index

Shinn Brake Spring Tool

Seems like nobody likes to install new springs on the Shinn brakes.  It can be done (sometimes) with a screwdriver using the pry and pop method.  But after one frustrating day spent struggling with my springs (4 of them, 2 on each side), I decided to take the time to may a spring stretcher tool.

I used a gas welder, a hack saw and a die grinder to make the tool.  It's constructed of scrap steel tube.  Photo 1. 

The stationary part of the tool is 2inches of 1/2" tube with a 1/4-20 nut welded to one end.  Also on the nut end of the tube a 3/4 inch by 1/2 inch piece of steel flat is welded on with a slot hack sawed in it to fit the loop end of the spring (the "fork").  (Photo 2)  A 1/4-20 bolt is screwed into the nut on the end of the stationary tube and provides the force to stretch the spring.

The movable part of the tool is a 2 inch length of 3/8" tube that fits nicely inside the 1/2" stationary tube.  One end of the tube is welded closed so the bolt can push it.  And the other end has a 1/2 by 3/8 flat welded on with a "spur" that can grip the hook end of the spring.  (Photo 3)  The movable part also has a 1/8" peg that rides inside a 1/8" slot in the stationary part.  The slot/peg is to keep the movable part of the tool from rotating when the tool is under tension.  (See "IF I make another"  below)

The spring tool is easy to use.  Install the spring loop end onto the brake, Push the fork end of the tool down over the loop to lock the tool in place, Engage the spur in the hook end of the spring and, Crank the bolt actuator until the tool expands the spring as much as you need.   Great for an old geezer like me because everthing happens in slow motion and I can even expand a spring and pause, go get a coffee or something, then come back later and finish the job.  Wonderful!

IF I make another tool.   If I made another tool I would eliminate the peg/slot setup and just have the 1/2 by 3/4 flat ride in the slot.  In other words, make the stationary tube a little longer with a longer slot and no peg.  I'd also put a big handle on the bolt, that little wing nut thing really hurts the fingers!

 

 

Ethanol Fuel Test

If you run auto fuel in your aircraft engine it's best to avoid the kind of auto fuel that contains ethanol.  Sometimes you cannot be sure if the fuel you're using has ethanol or not.  This test is an admittedly unscientific version of the ethanol test on the EAA website.

I use a pint size Mason jar for the test with about a inch of water.  Photo 1 shows the jar with water and a black strip of tape marking the water level.  I colored the water with a little grape juice for the photographs.

Next add 2 or 3 inches of the fuel to the jar.  Put the lid on the jar and shake it for a minute or so to mix the water and the fuel.  Photo 2.  The water will dissolve any ethanol in the fuel sample.

Finally, let the jar sit for several minutes.  The water/ethanol will settle to the bottom of the jar and the gas will rise to the top.  Note in Photo 3 that the "water" level is now nearly to the top of the tape.  The increased volume of water is due to the dissolved ethanol.  If there is no ethanol in the fuel sample, the water level will not rise.

Most folks only care if ethanol is present or not, but (Photo 4) you can calculate the approximate percent of ethanol in the fuel as follows: (1) measure from the tape mark to the new water level, in this example the water level went up 7/16 inch (.437") and (2) measure from the tape mark to the top of the gas, in our example it's about 2 1/4 inch (2.250")  then (3) divide the ethanol amount (.437) by the total fuel added (2.250) and we get  0.19 or 19% ethanol.

How accurate is this test?  Well, the pump where I got my fuel sample was labeled 15%  ethanol (and I measured 19%).  I've also tested several samples labeled "pure gas, no ethanol" and only one of them showed a slight indication of ethanol (the water level on that one sample rose about 1/8 inch, suggesting about 5% ethanol).  So I'm thinking this test is plus or minus 5% accurate...or maybe the fuel compounders have a 5% tolerance!